Friday, September 12, 2008

Atlanta -- Sept. 12, Day 8, Plus 2

Hi everybody,

I've been working on my dramatic conclusion to The Italian Job, which will be posted in a couple days. It will include several aspects of the trip I haven't been able to mention yet as well as what I hope will be a multilayered, moving reflection of the entire experience.

However, like any good story (at least if it's on TV), the conclusion is always preceded by ... a word from our sponsor.

*****

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If you would like to have a copy of the 2009 Emory Travel Program mailed directly to you, please email alumnitravel@emory.edu and include your name and address. You can direct any questions about the Emory Travel Program to the website as well.

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Thursday, September 11, 2008

Atlanta -- Sept. 10, Day 8

At about 2:45 p.m. EDT our plane entered U.S. airspace. Over Ohio. We were home. Well , I didn't get to my actual home until around 6:00 p.m. (after landing in Atlanta shortly after 4:00 p.m. and negotiating the customs and baggage-claim labyrinth, then picking up my car ... a two-hour tour that's about par for the course here).

It's neat how great circles work (the paths that take transatlantic flights far to the north because the route around the globe is shorter that way than it would be flying direct). Not only do we return to the U.S. west of our destination, but we also saw some incredibly exciting things along the way.

For instance, our flight path took us over Greenland. For those of you who've flown to Europe, this may not be a surprise, but for me, it was completely unexpected. You could make out icebergs off the coast. The landmass itself was pretty desolate. Jagged, rocky mountains on the coast; endless white covered the interior. For all intents and purposes, the trip was over, but there were still unforgettable sights to see.

As I mentioned earlier, we crossed back into the states over Lake Erie at 2:45 p.m. But I was actually more excited a few hours before that -- our first sight of land in North America ... in northern Newfoundland. That was when I knew we were almost home.

This last day, everyone pretty much kept to themselves, and I guess that was to be expected. Our Milan-Frankfurt-Atlanta group numbered about a dozen (the same ones who made the trip going out), we'd gotten to know each other very week during our time in Italy, but I think we all were just too tired to talk a lot ... even in Frankfurt, where we had a four-hour layover. We'd take turns wandering the terminal looking to spend our last few Euros ... I bought a beer stein. Not the one I'd looked at a week earlier, but still a nice one. A couple of our guests watched a movie on a portable DVD player. Others' noses were buried in books. It was quiet.

The rest of the group scattered back toward their homes ... in both Carolinas, Colorado, Illinois, Florida, New York, and elsewhere across the country. Many will reconvene back on campus over Emory Homecoming Weekend, Sunday, September 28, for the Emory Travel Program Reception, which marks the debut of our 2009 trips. I'll see them then.

For now, I'm going to unpack.

I've got a few more things to write, though, so The Italian Job isn't over ... although I think I am in the getaway car.

Plus, I really need to spell check this thing. The keyboard in the Lido Palace Hotel wasn't friendly. I know there are typos all over the place. Yuk! I'll fix it.

There is also so much I haven't mentioned ... little vignettes from our tours. I need to do a nice sweep though that. And that will be coming soon. But not tonight. The stories will last a lifetime. Right now ... I'm just happy to be home.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Baveno -- Sept. 10, Day 8

I think I'm sad. But I think I'm even more tired.

I and about 12 other bleary-eyed travelers are awaiting the bus for the ride to Milan's Malpensa Airport. We should be back in Atlanta at about 4:00 p.m. EDT. It's 4:00 a.m. here in Italy.

The trip is over and to a person, it's been a wonderful success. Yes, I'm sad it's over ... I think I felt that more last night at the farewell. There is a big part of me that's looking forward to being home, though. And that's something a lot of us are feeling. (A couple of travelers are staying in Europe for a few more days ... they are hearty).

Anyway, I'll have more to write on the other side of the Atlantic. There are a lot of things I haven't had a chance to wrte about and I'll get to them in my blog debrief, which could last a couple days depending on my energy. And I'll have a lot of photos to post.

Gotta go ... the bus is awaiting!

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Lake Orta -- Sept. 9, Day 7

This morning, with the sun coming up over the mountains in the east, Lake Maggiore shimmered. Thousand of golden flashes shone off the water, boldly brightening our final day in Italy. It was an ideal ending. Our first few days were drenched with near constant rain. Yesterday -- and especially today -- has been picture perfect. We can finally see what the mountains beyond the lake look like. It's a three-dimensional postcard.

Many of the places we've visited on this trip have been old -- 15th, 16th, and 17th century old. Lake Orta, though, is old. Part of the basilica we toured today on Isola di San Giulio was built in the 4th century. The crypt of San Giulio himself is in the basement and ornately, yet respectfully furnished.

Much of the current building dates to the most recent millenium, but it was easy to see the ancient beauty of the place. One of the most interesting things pointed out by the guides was the graffiti decorating some of the frescos on the inside of the church. The year was scratched into the stone: 1666. Maybe graffiti really is an art form.

We had a couple hours to ourselves in the town of Orta, on the mainland, after touring the church. There was a neat scruffiness to it that was absent in the touristy (yet incredibly beautiful) towns we saw yesterday. That's neither good nor bad. Just a bit different and a refreshing change.

It's the middle of the afternoon now and there is a farewell reception at 6:00 p.m. Our bus leaves for the Milan airport at 4:15 a.m. on Wednesday. That'll be a fun ride. I'll write an update sometime in between.

Lake Como -- Sept. 8, Day 6

The villages on our itinterary were pleasant no doubt: Tremezzo (with the 17th century Villa Carlotta as its centerpiece), Bellagio (where we had our pasta lunch), and Como (a brief tour of the cathedral followed by frenzied shopping to pick up silk souvenirs ... Como is where there finest Italian silk is weaved into gorgos scarves and bags and other knick knacks.

But the real star of today's trip was Lake Como. So far we've spent all of our time on Lake Maggiore and it's been one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. Until Lake Como. The mountains are higher, the water is bluer, the villages are ... um ... charming-er, and one of the most fun things we've done was the boat trip.

It was an hour on the water from Bellagio, in the middle of the lake, to Como, at its southern tip. We had wonderful views of the mountains, which rise majestcally on either side of the water and each villa was more attractive than the previous one. Many of them had their own stories.

One was the setting for the final scene of both Star Wars IV: A New Hope and Casino Royale (I must rewatch those scenes when I get home ... I have both DVDs), another once belonged to the late designer Gianni Versace (was was recenly sold to a Russian businessman). And one belongs to Oscar-winning actor George Clooney.

I actually didn't get a very good picture of it, but I tried. I did, however, get good photos of the guest house next door. Robert DeNiro stayed there just the other day.

Speaking of staying, I've got to go! It's Tuesday morning here and I've got to jump on the bus for Lake Orta, our last excursion of the trip. Talk to you soon.

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Stresa -- Sept. 7, Day 5

Today was Pavarotti Day in Stresa, the town just south of Baveno, where our hotel is located. The music of the late Italian tenor was playing throughout the town, the maestro's booming voice bouncing off the walls of the super-narrow paths between buildings. The music truly surrounded you as you walked. I would guess there are few things more Italian than listening to Pavarotti while enjoying a picturesque village on a sunny day (the rain, almost constant during the trip, didn't come until the evening ... with hail).

The atmosphere was lyrical enough that I'll fogive the town for including in the loop a version of Pavarotti singing We Are The World with a children's choir in the background. I do hope he earned a lot of money for that.

Stresa was a great little town. Wonderful food (I had the best plate of spaghetti I've ever had and Scott down a seafood pasta plate on the recommendation of one of our travelers that looked pretty spectacular). We took a boat over there this morning ... you can walk if you don't mind tiptoeing down a winding road for more than a mile without a sidewalk. In Italy ... that's not recommended, although the cars here are so small even if one hits you at full speed it might bounce off. Not that I want to test that theory out.

In Stresa, the shopping was good and inexpensive. Everyone I have to buy for (except my godson) got something. Even me. An Italian leather wallet for 20 Euros (about $35) was just too tempting to pass up. I didn't buy any foodstuffs, though, which is something I like to do during a trip. And I love pasta. Maybe in Como tomorrow.

After we got back, our evening started with a fascinating presentation about modern Italy led by Mara, one of our guides from earlier in the trip. It touched on economics (the Euro hasn't exactly been a friend to Italy ... prices have doubled, wages are stagnant), politics (more than 100,000 of Italy's people, more than 1 percent of the population, directly work in the government), society (the Catholic Church, long dominant, has been losing influence rapidly), and much more. Following that was a "meet the locals" panel discussion that included our travel director Valentina; Geno, an insurance adjuster; and his wife Christina, a nurse.

The questions from our guests ranged from how often Geno and Christina eat pasta (every day) to taxes (they pay too much), commutes (Geno, who works in Milan, often doesn't get home until almost 8:00 p.m.), the Mafia (much stronger in southern Italy) to government (a bit bureaucratic) and a lot more. It was one of the most enjoyable events of the tour.

For the first time dinner at the hotel inluded entertainment ... a piano player. The results were ... uneven. After running through the American Tourist Songbook: Georgia On My Mind, New York New New York, Can't Help Falling In Love ... our pianst pulled out Volare.

Whoa-oh.

It wasn't as good as Dean Martin could do it, but I think he'd be proud. Pavarotti ... I'm not so sure.

Milan -- Sept. 6, Day 4

Hi there,

I'm a little bit behind ... sorry about not posting Saturday ... it was a combination of not being able to get on the computer here at the hotel and eventually becoming engrossed in the old Arnold Schwarzenegger-Jim Belushi movie Red Heat, which was being broadcast in German on the TV in my room. (Hearing Arnold Schwarzenegger's voice dubbed into German is a bit surreal, I must admit.) One thing is for sure, it wasn't a hack job, either. Those responsible for movie dubbing in Europe take their job seriously. They went out and found people who sound like Schwarzenegger, Belushi, Peter Boyle and the other stars of the movie.

Anyway, just one more thing about TV over here before I move on to Milan. At the hotel we get stations in five languages: Italian, English, German, French, and Spanish. Frequently, I like to watch the programs and try to figure out what's going on. Lots of police procedurals and kid-oriented game shows on the German stations, news has been on the French station. On the Italian stations, I've noticed a combination of old (Italian) movies and old (American) TV shows. Seeing Jack Klugman on Quincy took me back to third grade again.

Enough of that ... Milan was a complete change of pace from our first few days, and that was to be expected. The lake villages have been quaint and relaxing. Milan was fast, glamourous, and edgy. There is a lot to like about both atmospheres and it was wonderful to mix them.

While we had our chance to sample Europe's fashion campital later in the day, our first stop in the morning was a bit more serios. We saw Leonardo da Vinci's The Last Supper, which is located a few blocks from the center of town. We had 15 minutes with the painting. It wasn't long enough. The more than 500 years that have passed since its completion may have dulled the colors (although extensive restoration efforts have done a lot to fix that), the centuries have done nothing to its impact. You feel your eyes open wider and pace slow as you see it. Our guide touched on the facial expression and actions not only of Jesus but of each of his desciples. It was facinating stuff. Considering that the idea of facial expression in painting was new in Leonardo's time (Italians refer to him by first name), its expert use here is even more remarkable.

Now ... I'm not an art historian, so I don't want to go too much indepth about the painting ... I don't want the real art historians to smack me around ... The best thing I can say about it is that I made sure to back out of the room so I could look at the painting as long as possible.

Following The Last Supper, we moved to the center of the city where we toured La Scala, Milan's legendary opera house, and the Duomo, the third largest church in the world (it took more than 500 years to build and it was worth the weight).

After that, the group was let loose for three and half hours in Milan. Shopping ensued. Scott and I had lunch in a pizzeria about a block from the square ... the pies were the size of steering wheels. After lunch we each ventured off on our own. Trendsetter that I am, I found my way to the fashion district. The people watching was a vacation in itself. Young fashionistas overloaded with paper bags mixed with families keeping track of wandering children mixed with old men squiring much younger women who I assume must have been their very attractive daughters. And all of them mixed with people like me ... tourists content to window shop ... too chicken to actually venture into a boutique.

It took me more than half the afternoon to overcome that. But I did because of a necktie. One of the last windows I spied had a neat necktie display ... best of all, they were affordable. After staring at it for a while, then a longer while, and doing the addition in my head to determine if I could afford it, and checking to see if I could still make the bus back to the hotel ... I entered.

The store was maybe 100 square feet. One wall was ties and Two walls were shirts and there were some other items scattered about. And five women were working. I greeted the one closest to me, boun giorno. I kind of mumbled it. I like to greet people in Italian, but I think I'm concerned I'm not doing it well, so I mumble. Which pretty much guarantees I won't do it well.

She smiled back and asked what she could do help ... eventunally switching to English when I asked. I mentioned I was looking for ties and she waved her arm inviting me to browse. Soon, I picked out two ties and asked her which one looked best on me. She picked the right hand ... a blue and white one (it was my favorite). I then asked if she could help me pick out a shirt. She immediately stepped over to one of the shelves and started pulling out shirts and matching the tie to it. She stopped on the third one. A really nice blue-striped one.

Bella, she said. The choice was made.

Less than five minutes and I've got my Italian clothes. This shopping thing is easy.

Friday, September 5, 2008

Borromean Islands -- Sept. 5, Day 3

Scott Keneda 91T and I are the Emory co-hosts for Italy's Magnificent Lake District, but we're not the leaders. Our travel director has been leading tours of Italy for seven years and while the job sounds exotic, it's a lot of hard work. The day we arrived she said arrivederci to a previous trip. The day we leave, she says boun giorno to a new group of travelers. The season runs though November and after it's over maybe she can take a vacation herself.

Valentina didn't start out in travel. In fact, the native of Milan has a master's degree in Spanish literature. Her first job was in advertising, but she quickly soured on it. She didn't like spending eight hours a day in an office doing work that frequently wasn't rewarding. "I got ... claustrophobic," she said to me.

Everyone I've met in Italy, save one very serious security guard in the Milan airport, speaks at least a little English. Many Italians, like Valentina, are fluent (and can easlity wield English words like "claustrophobic"). And the Italian communications technique as romanticized in American movies (with lots of "ahs" attached to the end of words and hand motions going in every which way) are basically true. (Something Valentina completely acknowledges ... she has a nice sense of humor about her country.)

After leaving her ad job, Valentina, who stands about 5 feet, 2 inches and weighs maybe 100 pounds with a hairstyle that is tied up in a different way each day, entered the travel industry. She knew northern Italy well and wanted to introduce visitors to her country. For the last seven years, she has done just that. She contracts with our travel vendor, AHI, which sets the trips (although she does have some input on daily destinations and other aspects of the itinerary). Our speakers are assigned, too, but Valentina has worked with all of them, so their rapport is excellent.

The has a few more trips to go this season and then would like to take some time off and travel herself. Maybe to the U.S., where she has never been. "I want to go somewhere warm in winter, she said.

Her first choice was Naples, Florida. Perhaps a nod to the original in her country. Further discussion touched on Fort Lauderdale, Miami, and Tampa. I suggested Southern California ("San Diego?" she asked. Good choice).

My final suggestion was Arizona. Especially if you like the desert.

Valentina found this possibility interesting. "We don't have deserts here and I want to see what they are like."

And that's as good a reason as any.

*****

Our trip to the three Borromean Islands in Lake Maggiore was a study in difference. The first, Isola Bella, is all about glamour. The villa that dominates the island is one of the most gorgeous and architecturally stunning in Italy. The second, Isola Pescatori, is all about commerce. Each island has shops, but the majority are here and the shopkeepers work hard to make sure your money doesn't get back on the boat. The third, Isola Madre, is about nature. The villa here is pretty, but the botanical gardens that surround it and flowers and trees from around the world are truly what make the island stand out.

Just writing one paragraph about it feels like I'm giving our seven-hour excusion to the island the short shrift. Believe me, it was pretty cool. And I've got the pictures to prove it. I may not be able to post them until after I get back to Atanta, though. Hopefuly you'll stick around until then.

Tomorrow: Milan

Thursday, September 4, 2008

Intra, Pallanza, Baveno -- Sept. 4, Day 2

Walk toward the water.

That was the advice I gave one of our travelers while we were joking about getting lost in the small town of Intra. We were being let loose for an hour of individual exploration before reconnecting for lunch. Intra was our first destination of the trip ... about a 30-minute bus ride from Baveno up the road that hugs Lake Maggiore.

My thought was, as long as you can find the water, you can find your way back to the restaurant, which was within a pebble's throw of Lake Maggiore.

About 45 minutes later ... I couldn't find the water.

There were all these three-story buildings in the way. All my life I've been blessed with a prety good internal compass. Apparently, that compass doesn't speak Italian. The town of Intra is actually not a tourist town, according to guides. Our stop would be an opportunity to see how regular workaday Italians live. The answer is a lot like the rest of us (although many take a three-hour lunch, which minimized our shopping ... still, some of our travelers bought handbags and negotiated 20 percent discount ... I'll need to shop with them a bit more).

My goal was to see as much of Intra as possible. And that meant going beyond the square, which was the focus of our guided tour. Just prior to shoving off on my own, I got to take a quick glance at a map of the town. The street layout wan't a grid. It was more like a pile of pick-up sticks. No two roads were parallel. This didn't worry me, though. Intra was a small place.

It's also an attractive place. And old. Many buildings in Intra date back centuries and the miles can be seen on the faded walls. The majority of buildings were three and four stories high. I thought that would be a nice bit of trivia, until I realized that after 45 minutes of wandering past stores and resturants and churches and kids on bikes and now leisurely exploring a residential area ... I couldn't see the water. Or much of anything. The buildings were too high. And the sun was behind clouds, so I had little idea of what direction to take.

So I turned right (which I thought COULD be the correct way) and kept walking. And walking. Faster. Finally I came upon a major road. It must lead toward town, so I turned again. And walked. And turned a corner. And saw Lake Maggiore.

I made it to the restaurant at 12:44. One minute early. That's better than I do for most meetings.

*******
At the EAA we like to talk about the Emory Travel Program as "educational travel." Yes, we get to see wonderful sights, but we also introduce travelers to local experts who put those sights and the surrounding area in historical and cultural context.

Patricia (who also was one of our guides) lectured in the morning about the history of the Lake District. In the evening, Massimo, whose day job is as a high school teacher of history and philosphy, lectured about the history of the Borromeo family, who owned most of this area before the Age of Napoleon. The information was fascinating (like 50 perecent of aristocratic girls became nuns because the marriage traditions of the time were so restrictive) and to a person our travelers devoured every nugget.

Tomorrow, we learn about the Age of the Renaissance. It's at 8:30 a.m. My policy as a student wasn't not to sign up for any clss before 10, but I'll give this a try.

*****

Intra was not the only place we visited. We walked along the lakeshore in Pallanza, just south of Intra, along the lake. We also spent some time in the village of Baveno, centered on its cathedral, portions of which date to the 5th century.

All in all a very successful day. Tomorrow is a boat trip to the Borromean Islands. Let's see what these lakes are made of.

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Baveno -- Sept. 3, Day 1 (Part 2)

Our first dinner in Italy consisted of four courses: an appetizer of dried beef and arugula, then locally made pasta, then an entree of veal or swordfish (I had the swordfish), followed by dessert. The chocolate cake was spectaular, the gelato even better. Diners also had their pick of white or red wine and the glasses were basically bottomless. Our group, which totals more than 40 ... we have a few other schools on the trip ... was spread out among 6 tables or so. The best I could compare it to is the atmosphere of a wedding reception. Without the Chicken Dance.

After the food was done, guests bounced from table to table introducing themselves to their fellow travelers. It was a perfect opening. Everyone seems to know everyone else or at least knows a friend of everyone else. Not ony does it feel like a wedding reception, it has a bit of a reunion feeling as well.

One of the great things about this trip (and most Emory Travel Program trips) is that a majority of the meals are included in the purchase price. If your destination is a culinary dreamworld like Italy, the value is doubled.

I am still getting to know our travelers, but I know this much so far ... every one of them has a fascinating story. Many of them, of course, involve travel. There was one couple who has been on 14 Emory Travel Program trips. Other couples are on their second or third trip this year. Many travelers graduated from Emory in the 1960s and earlier. Their recollections of campus are so crisp, it is like they were students yesterday.

The Lido Palace Hotel, in whose lobby I an writing this, will be home for the next 8 days. I am looking forward to exploring it. Tonight, though, all the exploring will be inside since it is raining outside and has been for the last five hours. It is a little damp in here, too, but not uncomfortable. In the lounge there is a pool table (a full-size one, too, not the kind you used to find at Park Bench). Inviting travelers to shoot a game or two is high on the agenda. I have always been an inconsistent player ... I wont even have to let our guests win. They will beat the EAA guy on their own. Everyone will be happy!

I miss the apostrophe key. I do not think these European keyboard have one. More research must be conducted. Until then, I will minimize contractions. Thats upsetting.

Baveno -- Sept. 3, Day 1

Made it to the hotel in Italy ... finally.

Collecting all of our guests at the Milan airport was challenging, but nothing Scott and I couldnt handle. We are all wearing nametags on lariats, so whenever we see a new face, we introduce ourselves. Not only were guests flying in from Atlanta we had others from Chicago, New York, Orlando, Tampa, and probably sure other places.

A shuttle scooped us up and took the group to the Lido Palace Hotel on Lake Maggiore ... the hotel is exquisite and the views spectacular ... albeit a bit misty because it is drizzling outside. The Borromean Islands, which we will be visiting in the next couple days, look close enough to hit with a 5-wood. The town square if half a mile away, so if we want to look around, we will have to be serious about it.

Did I mention the shuttle? I hear it was nice. I wasnt on it. I took a cab from airport to the hotel. And, you know, I think I got the better deal. Fascinating conversation with the cab driver ... we talked all about Italy (which, according to the cabbie, who spoke excellent if halting English, is in the midst of an economic downturn we Americans can only wonder about), America (he knows more about the upcoming election than most Americans), family, the Mafia, his pregnant wife, and his desire to visit the U.S. (and see "Mark Twain Country"). And only about three times did I think I was going to die on the road. It WAS a cab ride after all.

One of the great benefits of hosting travel program trip is that some programming involves meeting local residents for discussions about local issues. I already feel ahead of the game).

Our opening dinner is in about half an hour. If I am still awake, I will be back after it.

Frankfurt -- Sept. 3, Day 1

Well, the flight was uneventful and now we are passing the time in the Frankfurt airport waiting for our connection.

Flying a non-American airline was quite bit different. Basically an open bar. Hot food. Not-horribly uncomfortable seats.

Its been a lot of fun talking to our guests. Right now they are at the gate, sitting in a circle, swapping stories. Its only been a few hours, but there already have been a lot of connections made.

OK, Ive got about an hour to grab a bite and head back to gate. I saw a pretzel vendor that looked good. And Ill be flying back through next week. I can decide then if I should buy the touristy stein I saw.

Sorry about punctuation. I cant find the apostrophe on the keyboard!

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Atlanta -- Sept. 2, Day 0

Hi everybody,

Back to work after taking Monday off. I hope you got to as well.

Welcome to the last post before I get on the plane (which is about 6 hours from now and at least half that time will be spent sitting in Hartsfield-Jackson International Airport ... those of you who've been there will know how fun that is). It'll be my first time flying out of the International Terminal (Terminal E), though, so there's at least a ... very small ... sense of adventure. I wonder if the food is any better or the waiting-area seats more comfortable ... Is it like getting a ticket to club seats at Turner Field or Philips Arena where the vendors are just a little bit nicer and the beer slightly colder ... or is just an extra 10 or 20 or 30 more minutes on the lovely airport shuttle? I guess we'll see.

I don't think I've talked much about where our group is going. Well, it's about time I do that. Below is the itinerary for Italy's Magnificent Lake District and it, like our destination, is pretty cool.

Sept. 2-3, Days 0-1, Atlanta, Frankfurt, Milan, Baveno: After meeting about one-third of our group here in Atlanta, Scott and I will take the group flight, landing first in Frankfurt tomorrow morning, then after a layover on to Milan. After we get to Milan, we board a shuttle to our hotel in Baveno near Lake Maggiore (feel free to surf to a map of Italy, it'll help). That night, after meeting up with the rest of our travel group, we have a welcome reception at the Lido Palace Hotel, our base of operations for the journey. I have a cheat sheet listing which wines I'm supposed to drink, but what I'll probably do is ask for suggestions. I'm a bit of a work in progress when it comes to pairing wine with food. I'm SURE someone will take me on as a project.

Sept. 4, Day 2, Baveno, Intra, Pallanza: A walking tour of three storybook villages on Lake Maggiore kicks things off.

Sept. 5, Day 3, The Borromean Islands: Jewels of Lake Maggiore ... Isola Bella, Isola Madre, Isola dei Pescatori. The architecture dates back to the 16th century. We'll have lunch on the islands, too. That will probably be a bit fresher.

Sept. 6, Day 4, Milan: After wandering quaint, remote villages and islands, the group is thrown smack-dab into the middle of one of Europe's most vibrant cities. We'll see art both classic (da Vinci's The Last Supper) and contemporary (fashionable boutiques on every street corner). I've left space in my suitcase for souvenirs ... don't worry, the painting won't fit.

Sept. 7, Day 5, Baveno: Technically, a day on our own. There will be an optional boat trip to Stresa, on Lake Maggiore. We'll see what happens. I like improv.

Sept. 8, Day 6, Tremezzo, Bellagio, Como: We leave Maggiore for Lake Como and the villages surrounding. One of the things I'm most looking forward to is the drive over, actually. I was thinking about this the other day driving through my neighborhood. I have no idea was homes in Italy look like. Like where regular people live. Whenever I travel in the States, I really enjoy taking a jaunt through neighborhoods to see regional differences ... the alleyways in old Midwestern neighborhoods, where my parents grew up; the lack of grass out West ... I just think it's neat to see. While looking out the shuttle window I just hope I don't leave nose prints like my mom's Sheltie. But it could happen.

Sept. 9, Day 7, Lake Orta: If we thought 16th century architecture was classic, the 4th century basilica here will blow us away. The "arrivederci reception" closes out the trip that night.

Sept. 10, Day 8, Baveno, Milan, Frankfurt, Atlanta: Depending on how the reception goes I may just blow off sleep. Our flight to Germany leaves at 7:00 a.m. We'll need to be up and out the door several hours before. I'm sure that will go well. We're back in Atlanta late in the afternoon. Yeah, jetlag!

OK ... so that's the trip ... I'll check back in when we get to Frankfurt ... at least that's the plan.

Oh, and one more thing, I'm at home this morning writing this ... something I don't get to do too much. I like being home being home during the day ... it's peaceful ... even though I live in condo complex. You can relax.

Except today. Well, several days, actually

Seemingly the last five times I've had a rare day at home to enjoy several cups of coffee from my own coffee maker and the sun peeking in through my own blinds and my porch door open to let in the slightly humid but still refreshing breeze ... somebody is here mowing ... the ... lawn. And using ... a gas-powered ... leaf blower.

My windows are rattling. And it smells like I'm standing behind a 1977 Buick. We're still in a drought in Atlanta it's not like there is even grass to blow.

Anyway, I know that didn't have anything to do with anything ... but this is a blog, isn't it?

Arrivederci!

Monday, September 1, 2008

Atlanta -- Aug. 31, Day Minus-2

Not much to write today, although I did update my profile. Just want to give you something to read about me and hopefully establish some credibility. I really need to post a picture, too. The one I have up now is courtesy of AHI Travel, our hosts for the Italy's Magnificent Lake District. The shadowy figure in profile isn't me ... although it would be pretty cool if it was.

I updated my interests, too, but the blog program doesn't like parenthetical asides. It just wants a straight list: travel, sports, music, movies, television, hiking, kayaking, softball, bowling ... but that makes me sound boring, so I left it out.

I've pretty much strafed my friends with emails and calls letting them know I'm writing The Italian Job. By now, half of them probably hope I miss my flight back from Milan, if you know what I mean.

Oh, and one more fun technical tidbit ... the time stamps on this blog are set to Milan time, which is 6 hours ahead of Atlanta. I'm writing this just before midnight on Sunday. The post will say early Monday morning. Not even with a coffee IV could I write anything that early.

Sunday, August 31, 2008

Atlanta -- Aug. 30, Day Minus-3

I went to the bookstore today just to look around. I've always enjoyed looking through travel guides. The destinations don't have to be exotic (I once spent a great two days in Pittsburgh ... very underrated place), I just think it's fun to explore other places whenever you can, however you can, and if unfolding a map in a bookstore is as close as you can get to somewhere you want to go, so be it.

In the travel section, guides for Italy take up seven shelves (they were small shelves, but still, it's impressive). Italy wasn't what I was interested in, though. With three large folders of trip information provided by the travel company and the EAA, and four guides to Italy on loan from one of my friends, I have all the information about Italy than I'll ever need (volume aside, it sure is fun to go though).

I was interested in Germany. And the guides for Germany only took up one shelf. Is that a proper proportion? OK, maybe Germany isn't as sexy as France or Spain or Italy, but I've seen pictures; it looks gorgeous. And their movies are good, too.

By comparison, there was half a shelf devoted to Cuba. Because of U.S. travel restrictions, I can't even go to Cuba. Is it even fair to advertise a product most consumers can't access? Anyway ...

There are a couple reasons why I wanted to read about Germany. One is that family is from there. One quarter of them, anyway. The rest of me is Polish and Slovenian, and I've always been keenly interested in the three nations of my ancestors. (Completely irrelevant tangent ... during the recent Beijing Olympics, I turned on a men's volleyball match between Poland and Germany and didn't know who to root for ... I actually stressed about it for a little bit before finally siding with Germany. Don't tell my mom, she was probably rooting for Poland, the eventual winner.)

My great-grandparents on my mom's side emigrated to the U.S. from Germany. They were from a town called Aschaffenburg, near Frankfurt. That's significant because Frankfurt is where our group from Atlanta will change planes before flying on to Milan to start our adventure.

The fact that my first steps in Europe will be about 25 miles from where members of my family came from is unbelievably exciting. I was flipping though books on Germany so I could cram for my three-and-a-half hour layover in Frankfurt. The city is only 15 minutes by train from the airport, so a quick look isn't out of the realm of possibility, but I will have many guests accompanying me, so sticking around the terminal is likely.

Still, if have the opportunity, I have to make time to step outside the airport. You can't say you've been somewhere unless you've touched grass or dirt or at least asphalt. I want to make sure my first somewhere in Europe is Germany.